Restaurant:
Txoko
Address: 504 Broadway, Telegraph Hill/North Beach, SF
Phone Number: (415) 500-2744
Cuisine: Basque
Date Last Visited: June 14, 2012
Dining Companion: Keaton aka Bubz
Warning: I am about to go on a rant about foie, so if you want to skip to the restaurant recap, I advise you scroll down until you see the line made with ***** Thanks!
I'm just going to say it:
THIS BAN IS F*CKING RIDICULOUS.
There.
When I wrote
my foie gras piece for Pinchit two weeks ago, I wrote about 4 or 5 drafts for my intro. One was totally going crazy about how stupid the law was, the next was more toned down, the next went into the whole process of the feeding process, then the next one was on the verge of being political. I had to remember that I had to stay as calm and if possible as "neutral" as I could be. We all know that I love foie gras. It's not something I have all the time, but when I do have it, it's special.
Of course, I knew that many of the Pinchit readers out there subscribing to the newsletters do not share the same views I do; therefore, I had to keep my intro a little less enthusiastic about this buttery goodness. To me, there are somethings in fine dining that are just that. Fine dining. The fine way of preparing the dish. The fine details that go into plating. The planning, the mindset, the creativity, the artistry.
Fine dining is not just for sustenance. It's an experience using all the five senses. This begins not when the diner puts the food on their palate. No. It begins the moment the idea comes to the chef's mind. The moment when the chef says, "I want to create a dish using this and this and this in the best possible way I can."
So the chef shops the farmers market, scours artisan shops for spices, talks to their butcher friends, calls up their favorite purveyors...etc. They make sure they use the best ingredients available...foie is one of those ingredients.
Foie gras is one of those things that needs constant care to come out right. It's not cruel in my opinion. The ducks do need to be raised in a way so that their livers come out succulent and delicious. This takes time and individual care of each animal. Plus, foie producers have been practicing their methods for generations. These producers love their craft and their ending product. I mean, I would rather eat this than genetically-altered chicken. Chicken factories inject man-made enhancements in their animals all the time! Psh! Chem-i-cals.
Okay, before I get carried away, I will just say that banning foie gras is not going to solve anything. It's just going to get a lot of people pissed off.
So there.
Let's carry on.
*************************************************************
Keaton got lucky. He received a $100 gift certificate from a contest. He had a chance to choose from various restaurants, but when he saw Txoko's available, he called me up and made sure I wanted that one. Of course! So right after he picked up the certificate, we headed over to Txoko. I mean, come on. Foie is going to go "extinct" in California in a mere two weeks, we had to have some. Txoko has a four-course foie tasting menu. Get here while you still have time!
It was such a gorgeous day in SF that day. Even when we got there at 6:00 or so, it was still sunshiny outside. While the dining room is gorgeous, we opted to eat outside in one of their little booths. Our servers were such dolls...meaning they were so sweet.
Note: my camera did not have its SD card in it. Fail. So Keat took these pics with his iPhone. Apologies!
Bread and Olive Oil with Salt and Pepper
I really like the olive oil here. Usually I don't "review" the olive oil that is being used to dip my bread in, but the addition of the salt brought me to thinking about my favorite ice cream sundae from Pizzeria Pico and Zero Zero. If you have been there, you know what I am talking about. The olive oil was nice and fruity and was delicious with the salt.
Fries with Aioli
Keat said these words, "These are the best fries I have had in a while." Think Red Robin's fries but even better, and we all know RR's never-ending fries are bomb dot com. These are the grown up version. I loved the seasoning dusted on top and the aioli was stellar. The outside of the fries were nice and crisp, but the middle was so tender on the verge of velvety. Delish.
Mixed Greens Salad
Sherry Vinaigrette, Fresh Herbs
Poor Bubz, majority of the apps had some sort of seafood in it, so he got this simple salad. I loved the addition of fresh herbs in there. I got some mint which was refreshing and delicious.
Foie Gras Torchon Crouton
Escarole, Apricots
The first foie dish was this gorgeous warm salad of escarole, which is a type of endive. It's not as bitter as endive, and it is lovely when served slightly cooked like this. The foie on the crouton was like butter. Beautifully rich that went well with the acid from the salad and sweetness of the fruit.
Potato and Green Garlic Soup
Serrano Ham, Egg, Pimenton
I love Basque soups. I started loving them since my visit to Piperade a few years ago. This one made me love them even more. While there weren't huge chunks of potato or garlic swimming in the soup, it was still very hearty. Once the egg yolk as broken and was allowed to mix with the soup, another level of silkiness and richness was added. Divine. Keat and I adored the little dice of ham which was left in our last spoonfuls. Potatoes and ham. Comfort.
Liver and Onions
Foie Gras a la Plancha, Braised Cipollini, Soubise, Chive, Shallots
Here we go. Keat loves loves loves seared foie gras. We share each course, but he kept this dish to himself after I took my bites. This dish is amazing. From the little fried shallots to the fresh green chives on top to the little whole cipollini. That's three different types of onion for you, yet each had their own lovely quality. Now the foie. Oy. Where do I begin. From the moment you cut into it and see the fat just oozing out of there, you know you're in trouble. The way the little layer of bread just soaks it all in. I'm shaking my head as I am typing because it is so incredibly decadent. Go to Txoko for this. Trust me.
Glazed Beef Cheeks
Carrot Puree, Cipollini, Crispy Sweetbreads, Shaved Celery, Horseradish Cream
As if we could eat anymore after the last course.
Beef cheeks take a long time to cook. Cows chew a lot so there is tons of muscle, tissue, what have you in the cheeks that need to be softened. It usually takes a few hours for this to be accomplished. They do cheeks right here at Txoko. The texture is almost sticky because of the broken down proteins and collagen.
The veggies on the plate were delicious. The horseradish was yum. What we were really intrigued by were those little fried morsels. I did not read the menu closely enough to remember what was exactly in the dish. Keat ate one and he said it tasted like chicken. When I tasted it, it had a seafood quality to it which scared me because Keat is allergic. Our server ended up telling us they were sweetbreads!
Lovely! These were Keat's first sweetbreads. After the initial shock of what sweetbreads really were, he was over it.
Pan Seared Day Boat Scallops
Foie Gras Sauce, Hen of the Woods Mushrooms, and Potato Coulis
Scallops make me very happy. They are so perfect. Not ugly like their oyster cousins. Joking aside, the lovely seared scallops were still a little rare in the middle which is how I prefer them. The sauce was not as overbearing as I thought it would be. Scallops are very delicate and so was the sauce while you still get that foie in there. With the addition of potato and mushrooms, here you have the perfect combination for me. The portion was just right too. By the time I get to the 3rd course, I'm stuffed already, so this was perfect.
Foie Gras Ice Cream
Prunes, Crumbled Shortbread
Yes, foie gras ice cream. I thought it was going to be totally rich, but it was not the case. It's very subtle. I am not a fan of prunes in general, so I just stuck with the ice cream and cookies. At this point of the dinner, Keat and I had to shared because we were so full! Everyone should try foie gras ice cream before July 1st. Just saying.
I have a greater appreciation for foie. I've had it at a number of places and it is really sad that it's going away in just two weeks. The server at Txoko and I spoke briefly and she said that the reception of the foie menu is great. Tons of people are coming in to have it. I think you should too...if you have never had it, this would be a good time to try it out. Granted it's not for everyone, but for those who do like it, it's not time to get your fill before we have to say goodbye, friends.
xoxo,
Jo