
First of all: Happy Philippine Independence Day!
On this day in 1898, "...Emilio Aguinaldo proclaimed the sovereignty and independence of the Philippine Islands from the colonial rule of Spain..." -
WikipediaAll I can say is that I love being Filipina. There is so much culture and history from our country and I am just so proud to be who I am. Many things are important to the Filipino people: family, friends, and FOOD especially. We share our stories with each other over food. We celebrate over food. Hell, we even fight over food. When I talk about Filipino food, people who are new to it usually ask me, "Where can we get Filipino food in San Francisco?"
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There usually is a long pause before I start speaking again because, honestly, I can't give them an answer. And that's a damn shame. So really...why aren't there good Filipino restaurants IN San Francisco?
In SF, we have all the Asian cuisines covered: Japanese, Chinese, Thai, Burmese, Vietnamese, etc, but good Filipino food is so hard to find. Let's start from the beginning.
First, when opening up a restaurant of any kind, especially an "ethnic" resto, one must ask, "Do we want to go as traditional as possible or do we want to experiment?" Filipino food in itself is one big experiment from years and years of colonization and occupation. Because Filipino cuisine takes influence from the Chinese, Spanish, and native inhabitants, it's hard to really pinpoint what the official/quintessential Filipino food is. Sure you have your adobos, pancits, lumpias, etc., but does everyone know about denengdeng, laing, mongo, or pinapaitan or even the curries that the Malays have influenced in Mindanao? Probably not.
If I had a restaurant, I’d want it to thrive because of its food. No gimmicks, no BS, just good cooked food; however, it’s hard for the generation which immigrated to the US to steer away from anything non-traditional. They don’t give a damn about garnishes or molecular gastronomy. If they want a fried fish, they’d get one from the local supermarket for $2 and have it fried on the premises or fry it themselves at home. Why? Because that’s how they did it back home. Tell them to go to a restaurant and get the same thing at twice the price, they’d think your crazy. “But it comes with heirloom tomato medley and a ‘saw saw’ made with soy sauce made with organically grown soybeans and red wine vinegar from Napa!” They’ll whoop you with a slipper so fast, you didn’t know what hit you!
Daly City, Vallejo, South San Francisco, Milpitas, etc. have huge Filipino populations. Quite possibly the largest concentration of Filipinos outside of the Philippines is right here in the Bay Area. Why go to a restaurant if you can drive 5 minutes away and have it at home or at a family members house? Everyone knows everyone else and when you go to someone’s house, even for a short visit, you are welcomed with, “have you eaten yet?”
But then there are the non-Filipinos in San Francisco who want to experience good Filipino food, but don’t know where to go. Why? Because there are no places to go in the City. In San Francisco, being the gorgeous food Mecca it is, you have to have a spark to lure people in and to keep them where you want them. However, the ironic truth is that most of the Filipino places in San Francisco are “turo-turo” or the “point at what you want” take-out places. No frills, hole-in-the-wall places. They’re usually very cheap and don’t require you to tip anyone for serving you.
You would think that SF would embrace a Filipino restaurant that serves up fancy versions of sinigang, sisig, and kare kare. For some reason, no one is buying it. Why? For the hesitant one who is unfamiliar with Filipino food, it is better to risk five bucks on a 2-item combo from Tita Baby’s turo-turo than to spend $20 on a meal, especially if it is not known if they will like it or not.
For those who are familiar with Filipino food, hey, cheap is always good! But I think no Filipino in the suburbs of the Peninsula would drive all the way to the City for adobo when they can make it at home. Or if they were lazy (like me at times), they’d drive to South San Francisco or San Bruno at one of the local and reliable eateries…or to my Auntie Gloria’s house. But then again, where do non-Filipinos (or even Filipinos who got no clue about their own cuisine) go?
First it’s important to know that Filipino food is different. There are three major sections in the Philippines which are made up for over 7,000 islands. The northern areas favor bitter, pungent flavors, and the more south you go, the spicier the food gets. What we need in San Francisco is to familiarize everyone with Filipino food and its roots. Know where the food came from, know what ingredients are in a dish, etc.
These days “fusions” or “mash-ups” are thing to do. Sisig found in tortillas and on top of nachos, chicken adobo in a burritos. While those things are good, and very amusing (and almost, um, cult-ish) to the younger generations, those in the older generations are afraid that the traditional ways are getting lost. Haven’t you heard? “No one will marry you if you can’t cook, hija! Go cook rice and measure the water with your finger!” The Filipinos in my generation will just eat about anything: Indian, Japanese, French, Moroccan, anything! We are eating outside of the home more. We go partying. We follow lists, Zagat, 7x7, Sfoodie, Twitter, Facebook. We like trying new things.
However, the generations before us like to hold on to tradition. Why fix something that ain’t broke? Why is there a purple flower on my mechado? Why am I paying $10 for two plates of food when I can use that $10 to make a big pot of food at home 10 blocks away which can feed 10 manongs and manangs?
If opening a restaurant in San Francisco, one must ask themselves, old school or new school or both? Cheap or pricy? Who are my patrons and how will I keep them coming back? What will make my restaurant different and better than the ones in South City or San Mateo?
I will be honest and say that the economy sucks ass and some people find it ridiculous to pay lots for Asian food. The Slanted Door is lucky to have the clientele it has. Ana Mandara, OSHA Thai, Heaven’s Dog, even Poleng Lounge had to do something extra to give their restaurants extra oomph. DJ spinning on the weekends, drink specials, hot waitresses in “traditional” costumes.
When will an Asian restaurant in San Francisco get by solely on the food and the food alone? Sure the ambiance has to be welcoming and the staff professional and friendly, but in this economy, it’s hard to open a Filipino restaurant in San Francisco that will thrive on just its food. Either people are too unfamiliar with it still or the stuff that they like to eat are readily available at street food fairs or street festivals…usually plates of rice with a stick of BBQ pork and pancit. OR they rely on Jollibee or Superstar to curb their Chicken Joy (how Filipino is THAT, first of all?) and “silog” needs. Can’t beat $3 tocilog at my favorite greasy spoon.
Are people in San Francisco READY for binagoongan pork or dinuguan or adobong kang kong? Since we really don’t know the answer to that yet, wouldn’t one think that starting a restaurant with unfamiliar dishes is a bit risky? Those who have opened restaurants did so in places they knew people would gather - near the suburbs, near schools, near people who they know are familiar with the food and would appreciate it. Intramuros Restaurant in South San Francisco is an example of trying to keep it traditional yet contemporary at the same time.
CPA aka chicken and pork adobo, huge chunks of meat simmered in soy and vinegar with slices of banana. Rice mixed with crab fat. The kare kare - very strong in peanut flavor accompanied with the customary bagoong alamang. Bibinka souffle with coconut crème anglaise, white cheese and salted duck egg for dessert. Then WHAT? Clubbing at the end of the night and sipping on a San Miguel beer while listening to the house band play Beatles songs and tunes of rock bands from back home. They make sure that the dish’s integrity is still intact. No, the halo halo wasn’t made in a tub of nitrogen. And no, the bistek wasn’t cooked in a sous vide. There were just a few changes in the recipes - watermelon used to sour the sinigang instead of tamarind, but the methods used to cook the dishes are the same. It’s good food at a good price in a lovely setting near home. I’ve seen Filipinos of all generations flock to this restaurant.
Other places I really like in South SF and San Bruno are Ongpin, Patio Filipino, and Tribu. They all are very friend, welcoming, and serve great food at reasonable prices. No dancing dancing kimbut kimbut at night. Just good and satisfying grub. I am totally bummed that Poleng Lounge had to close because I really enjoyed their dishes - from the adobo chicken wings to their sisig (which was some of the best and quite possibly one of the most traditional-tasting I have ever had in SFC).
As you can probably see, Filipino food is a weird subject to talk about when it comes to asking, “well, why aren’t there more Filipino restaurants out there in the mainstream?” Even Anthony Bourdain asked. Lechon baboy is his favorite out of ALL roasted pigs in the entire flippin’ universe. I don’t know what it will take to finally get a restaurant opened and stay successful in San Francisco. I really don’t. Is adobo the main star in Filipino cuisine? Is it pancit? Is it lumpia? Fried lumpia or lumpia sariwa? Should only “special occasion” food be on the menu or is Inang’s Saturday afternoon lauya “good enough” to get on the menu?
I don’t know. It’s hard for a Filipino to answer that question. At least it is for me. There are so many dishes that have yet to be introduced in America and it’s hard to say if people out there are going to embrace it. Not sure if my Tatay’s goat kilawen will tickle SF’s fancy, but I’m quite sure that Tita’s pancit palabok will…but when serving pancit: which one of the fifty variations are you going to choose to showcase on the menu?
See? I’m still conflicted and confused.
So why aren't there more Filipino restaurants in San Francisco?
Even after rambling and writing this much, I still don’t know.
All I can end with is this: do not be afraid of Filipino food. Embrace the pungent and sweet and sour flavors. Educate your palette. Get to know our history. Filipino food is wonderful to be shared. Bring a friend...or two or three! NEVER deny a Filipino person when they invite you to eat. June is a month of celebration for our country and for us Filipinos and Fil-Ams. Go to a festival! Just don't be scare to try out new things. You won't be sorry!
Kain na!